Showing posts with label Building Inspections Perth. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Building Inspections Perth. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Footing design for home

By: Peter Huber
Posted By: BHIS
Source:http://bit.ly/1Ww1RM1

What is probably as important as consistent compaction is the design of the footings and the actual digging and pouring is equally as important. Firstly footings should be designed according to the nature of the soil. For example you would not design the same size footing when building in clay soils as you would if you were to build on sandy well drained soil.

Building Inspection Perth

It has always been our advise to firstly sample and categorise the soil, if you are to build on clay or loamy soil, especially where drainage is poor. This will then determine the type of footing design for the home and will minimize any settling or cracking that would normally occur.

Pre Purchase Building Inspections Perth

Well we now have got, consistent compaction and a footing, designed specifically for the soil and a slab to match. The next step is to examine the perimeter masonry walls to see if and what type of settling cracks have occurred if any.

Property Inspection Perth WA

The settling cracks that are visible on the brick work or internal walls are a signature or blue print as to what has occurred under the slab.

Professional Building Inspections Perth 

The walls are a reflection or and indication as to the stability of the foundation. Below are some diagrams showing the different type of cracks that can occur and why.

Friday, August 14, 2015

What causes condensation in houses? | Building Inspection specialists Perth



By:peter
Posted By:bhis.com
Source:www.bhis.com.au/2012/10/condensation-issues/

CONDENSATION IN HOUSES:-
What Causes condensation?

THE AIR AROUND US ALWAYS Contains A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF WATER VAPOUR BUT THE AMOUNT THAT CAN BE PRESENT AT ANY TIME DEPENDS ON THE TEMPERATURE OF THE AIR.
Building Inspection specialists Perth:
When moist air is cooled below its “dew” point that is (cooled to temperature at which it cannot contain all the water originally present) and if the cooling is caused by contact with a colder surface, then the surplus water appears as droplets on that surface, we call this condensation.

In real every day analogy it translate like this:- we hardly notice the air around us on an average day, then night time approaches, the temperature drops, and things become cold as the temperature drops, so does the air, if this dropping in temperature continues then the water vapour that occurs naturally in the air turns into water and if cold enough into ice.

Air in a house can become moister because the occupants and some appliances produce water vapor. Typical quantities of water vapor produced in a home are:-

    Adults breathing 0.1 liters/hr
    Hot Bath 1.5 liters/hr
    Washing Machine 3.0 liters/hr
    Clothes Drier 5.0 liters/hr
    Hot Shower 10.0 liters/hr

Water vapor is also generated in large quantities by gas stoves/hot plates and kerosene heaters so much so that a lot of water may be stored in the air each day as water vapour.

Building Inspection specialists Perth:
On cold days much of this water will condense (if the ventilation rate is low) on cold window panes and even on walls. Little wonder then when some house holders complain of mold, decay and damp carpets.

Steam coming from service areas such as kitchens laundries and bathrooms travel to other rooms in the house, even if these rooms are a considerable distance away. The worst condensation problems generally occur in unheated rooms facing south which receive little heat from the sun. The movement of the water vapour within the air (using the air as a travel medium) travelling from service areas to other rooms such as bedrooms is due to the difference in water vapour pressure.

Condensation in new homes

Severe condensation problems often occur in new homes as construction moisture is stored in the bricks floor etc. in addition to the moisture generated by the occupants. It will take about six to 12 months for the water to evaporate. Some of this moisture will be lost to the outside air by natural ventilation and much will find its way into other rooms in the house.

Building Inspection specialists Perth:

If moist air from the rooms is exhausted into the roof space, sever condensation may occur within the roof space causing costly damage to ceilings, roof members and insulation materials.

    Poorly vented pitched tiled roofs with aluminium foil sarking directly beneath the tiles. To reduce the risk of condensation, ventilation should be provided in the eaves and gable ends.
    Flat metal deck or cathedral roofs. On no account should moist air be exhausted into these roof spaces. It should be carried by flues passing right through the roof space (or external walls) to the outside air. Sever condensation could also occur if such roof spaces were connected via wall cavities to a moist sub-floor space.

Technical information by courtesy of CSIRO.
For now till next week when we will discuss
“HOW TO STOP CONDENSATION IN HOUSES”
your “Handy Jock”.

Building Inspection specialists Perth:
Any questions that our readers may have would be gladly welcomed and endeavored to be answered as seen fit

Do you What causes condensation in houses? Condensation problems often occur in new homes as construction moisture is stored in the bricks floor etc. in addition to the moisture generated by the occupants. So Call 08 9331 3031 for Home Inspections reports Perth  and Building Inspection reports Perth for complete home solution.

Source:www.bhis.com.au/2012/10/condensation-issues/

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

Pre Purchase Building Inspections Perth | How to cure Rising Damp – Part One



Building Inspection Perth WA
08 9331 3031/0418 948 760
 
By: Peter Huber
Posted by: www.bhis.com.au
Source: www.bhis.com.au/2012/10/roof-repairs-in-preparation-for-winter/

No problem is so wide spread nor so misunderstood as rising damp. Probably every building built before 1900 has a damp problem in some degree and thousands of dollars are spent in repairs.
In many cases the cure is worse than the disease; illconceived treatments may in fact increase the problem and could decrease the real estate value of the building.
On top of this many renovation practices can cause problems where they may not have existed previously.
Expensive and good looking renovations can turn into disaster areas by not allowing for moisture flow in old walls.

The symptoms of wall dampness are easily recognised: musty smell, deteriorating paint and plaster. The moisture behaves like a wick and in fact is called wick action, it literally rises up the wall, like kerosene rises in a wick on the kerosene lamp. There comes a point where the damp cannot rise any further due to natural ventilation causing it to dry out this area is called the tide mark and is quite visible, at that point the drying out process is the fastest and mineral salts are deposited as visible marks on the wall. This tide mark is usually at about 900mm above floor level.
The first step in rectification is to source the cause, the damp proof course which is usually made out of lead or galvanised iron or even bituminous material, which is imbeded between the brick coursing, in the hope of preventing the damp rising, may have deteriorated over the years. But more often the problem is elsewhere.
The most logical and essential consideration to the prevention of rising damp is keeping the ground on which the building is located as dry as possible. That is achieved by diverting any discharged water well away from the building and its foundations, it is also essential to check gutters, drains and down pipes for hidden leaks that may not always be obvious.


If the floor structure is timber then the underneath should be well ventilated using the natural cross ventilation system available, by means of vent grilles installed on the perimeter walls, at every 1.8 meters is desirable.
If it is a concrete raft slab construction, then the damp usually rises on the perimeter walls and is almost always due to bridging of cavities or the overflowing of eaves into cavity walls. Generally the concrete slab itself with the plastic membrane under neath is a good water proofer in itself thus negating any moisture conning up from under the slab.
If all these basic building rules have not been broken and the damp still persists (highly unlikely) then other more effective chemical means may have to be implemented. These include the chemical injection of silicone liquids under pressure this is usually done by competent trades specialising in this type of work. Another method that I have heard and read about is the “FREEZTEQ” damp course System that can be done by the handyman or women.
Next week we will discuss this system and how it works as well as other causes of damp in walls.
please call our office. We want you the reader to write to us on , any Building matters, questions or if you seek advise,  we will gladly answer any topic that you wish us to discuss, so please send your letters to “B. & H. I. S.” C/O. 46 Riley  Road , Kardinya , W.A. 6163. or fax/ph (09) 331-3031. We will continue next week  ie..

Source: www.bhis.com.au/2012/10/roof-repairs-in-preparation-for-winter/